Wall Mounted Organizer for Screw Drivers and Nut Drivers

Been wanting to better organize my screw drivers for some time now. And the nut drivers, well they have been tucked away in a drawer. The saying, out of sight out of mind, definitely is applicable here regarding the nut drivers.

Since I still have OSB left over from an earlier project, I will use left over 7/16″ & 3/4″ OSB. No sense letting it go to waste.

Rough Sketch & Board Numbering
Sketch #1 below shows the basic wall mounted organizer that I came up with. Not all the 3/4″ diameter holes are shown, it’s a conceptional sketch. This is the type of sketch I generally start with, to help me visualize what I want to build.




Dimensions for Boards
Only need 2 pieces of 3/4″ OSB, and 2 even smaller pieces of 7/16″ OSB. The dimensions required for these 4 pieces of OSB are as follows:

Boards 1 & 2 — Boards 1 & 2 are dimensionally the same, 12-5/8″ x 5-1/4″ x 3/4″, for each board.

Boards 3 & 4 — These 2 boards will go thru a two step cutting process as follows:
1st Cut — 7″ x 6″ x 7/16″, for each board
2nd Cut — These dimensions which include an angled cut, will be worked out later
in this post, after boards 1 & 2 are fastened together.

Lets Drill Some Holes
Step 1 — I marked the 24 hole locations as shown in Photo #1 below on board 1. The spacing between all hole centers & adjacent hole centers is 1-3/8″. Additional dimensional data is shown on Sketch #2 below.

Photo #1

Step 2 — I drilled a total of 24 holes, consisting of 3 rows & 8 columns. All 24 holes were 3/4″ in diameter. I used an Irwin 3/4″ Speedbor auger type of drill bit with 3 spurs. The Speedbor made quick work of drilling the 24 holes.

Lets Put It Together

Step 1— After drilling the holes in board 1, I next used my Orbital Sander to sand the top & bottom sides of board 1. I used 36 grit sandpaper.

Step 2— Next I fastened board 1 to board 2. This was a multi-step process that I accomplished as follows:

1) I clamped boards 1 & 2 together as shown in Photo #2 below and then fastened the two
boards together with four 1-1/2″ length brad nails. Love that brad nailer.

Photo #2

2) To complete the fastening of board 1 to board 2, I used three 1-5/8″ length dry wall screws.

The three screws along with where they are going to be placed is shown in Photo #3 below.

The two outside screws are spaced 2″ from each end of board 1, and the center screw is
centered between the two outside screws shown.

Photo #3

Step 3— The final cutting & fastening of boards 3 & 4 is identical for both boards, unless of course you have door trim (etc) to adjust for. Which I had for board 4, but it was no big deal. The cutting and fastening of board 3 was done as follows:

1) Photo #4 below, shows boards 1 & 2 clamped to my workbench with a holdfast.
An “F” style type clamp was used to clamp board 3 to boards 1 & 2. Photo #4 also
shows me penciling a line onto board 3.

Photo #4

2) Photo #5 shows the penciled lines drawn on board 3, that were just referred to above.
The black inked multi-line represents the final cut lines for board 3. I used my 12″
band saw for this multi-line cut.

Photo #5

3) Photo #6 shows board 3 clamped to boards 1 & 2, and me using my brad nailer to shoot
1-3/16″ length brad nails. I spaced the brad nails at about 3/4″ on center. Surely 5 brad nails on the horizontal & vertical sides of board 3, for a total of 10 brads, would have
been adequate. But we are all entitled to at least one idiosyncrasy, don’t you think?

Photo #6

4) Assuming you do not have to notch around anything (I had to) then the cutting & fastening of board 4 is identical to the procedure used for board 3.

5) After cutting & fastening of boards 1 thru 4 together, I ran my assembled project across
my disk sander. I did this to correct for any lack of squareness between associated
boards, where squareness was req’d.

Well I’ll Be

After running my assembled project across my disk sander, it dawned on me that the disk sander did a great job of sealing up the edge sides of the OSB. I was using 120 grit disk sandpaper. I’m thinking that the heat generated by the disk sander melted, I guess glue in the OSB, and resulted in the edges looking more finished. Needless to say, I then ran all the OSB edges across the disk sander.

I have attempted to show what I am talking about regarding the OSB edges, in Photo #7 below. The OSB on the left has not been sanded, the edge is rough and porous. The OSB edge on the right was sanded with 120 grit sandpaper on my disk sander, the edge is smooth & the porous openings were sealed closed.

Photo #7

The Finished Product
Here’s the finished product shown in Photo #8 below. Besides the screw drivers & nut drivers, also had room for one of my awls. And I also have 7 spare holes, always nice to have spares.

Photo #8

Request
If you enjoyed this post, I would be very grateful if you would share it by email with a friend, or on Google+, and/or Facebook. While I am being needy, would you give me a “Like” on my Facebook page (Woodworking with AJO). My Facebook page “Like” button is on the right side of this page, or you can click on the link shown below for my Facebook page. Thanks a bunch.

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Until next time, Take care
AL

 

 

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