Lets Get Started — Board 1
I set the height of this board, such that the top of the board would be approximately 1″ below the horizontal surface of the truck seats. For my truck this equated to a board height of 6″.
After getting the board height, I ripped a piece of T-111 into a piece 6″ in width and approximately 17″ in length. I used my table saw for ripping (6″ width) and my chop saw to cut to approximately a 17″ length.
In Photo #3 below, I set my bevel gauge to the angle to be used for the left and right sides of board 1.
To cut the angled right side, for board 1 using my chop saw, I used my bevel gauge as shown in Photo #4 below, to transfer the req’d angle to my chop saw.
After cutting the right angled side for board 1, I next measured the req’d length for the bottom side of
board 1. Referring to Photo #2 above, the bottom side dimension will be 12-15/16″, as shown. Since this dimensioned side rested on top of my truck hump, while measuring the hump side angles.
I used my 12″ level to determine the height req’d for board 2. This part is somewhat awkward, but here’s how I approached dimensioning the height req’d for board 2.
- Placed my 12″ level on top of board 1.
- With the level horizontally level, I used a 12″ steel ruler, to measure the height req’d for board 2. The measurement was taken from the top of the hump (Where board 2 will be located) to the bottom side of the 12″ level.
- Since board 3 runs under board 2, the thickness of board 3 (5/8″) must be subtracted from the above dimension to obtain the req’d dimensional height for board 2.
- Rip board 2 to the dimension obtained above, which is 3-7/8″ (For my truck).
After ripping board 2 to the req’d width (Referred to as height above), I placed board 2 behind board 1
(As shown in Photo #6 below). I penciled the angles on board 2 to match the angles on board 1. I cut the two penciled angles with my chop saw. And that completes the cuts for board 2.
For starters, I ripped a piece of T-111 to the req’d width. Width of board 3 is dependent on how you have boards 1 & 2 spaced (Distance between them). For my build, the width req’d is 4-1/2″.
Where the two ends of board 3 butt up against boards 4 & 5, the ends need to be angled to match up with boards 4 & 5. Since boards 4 & 5 are angled between the top of the hump and the bottom of the hump. The first angled cut for board 3 is shown below in Photo #7 along with additional info.
Also shown in Photo #7 above, is a penciled line on the right side of board 3. This penciled line marks the cut line on the top side of board 3 for this angled cut.
I used my table saw to make the angled cuts on board 3. I used a scrap piece of wood cut to the same angle as the angles on boards 1 & 2, to set my table saw blade to the req’d angle. Photo #8 below shows my template (Scrap piece of wood mentioned above) being used to set the req’d angle on my table saw.
The cutting of the 1st angle for board 3 is simple once the angle on the table saw has been set. The cutting of the 2nd angle on board 3 is a little more involved. Since the length of board 3 being correct, is dependent on an accurate marking of the 2nd angle on board 3.
Sketch #3 included below, shows the penciled line from Photo #7 being used to mark where the 2nd angled cut on board 3 needs to take place. The “Angle Template” mentioned is the scrap piece of wood mentioned earlier, whose angle matches that of boards 1, 2, and the angle req’d for board 3.
Board 3 is now cut and angled as req’d.
Boards 4 & 5
Boards 4 & 5 are dimensionally the same (See Photo #1 & Sketch #1). Both boards are 3/8″ plywood, and dimensions of each board are 9-1/2″ x 5-1/8″ x 3/8″. I cut both boards using my table saw to cut to width, and my chop saw to cut to length. Regarding the 5-1/8″ width, I actually ripped the two boards to a 5-1/2″ width. I wanted some wiggle room, for when I went to fasten these two boards to boards 2 & 3. I figure at assembly time, I will trim the two boards to their final widths. More on that later.
The video link below shows a no math req’d method for determining the height of board 6. Also shown is how to locate where to make the two angled cuts for board 6.
Board 6 is now cut and angled as req’d.
Continued at the following Link:
Making a Cup Holder for Your Vehicle (Part 3 of 3) | Woodworking with AJO
If you enjoyed this post, I would be very grateful if you would share it by email with a friend, or on Google+, and/or Facebook. While I am being needy, would you give me a “Like” on my Facebook page (Woodworking with AJO)? My Facebook page “Like” button is on the right side of this page, or you can click on the link shown below for my Facebook page. Thanks a bunch.
Until Next Time. Take Care