The photo below shows a tenon (vertical board) being used to mark location of mortise, on horizontal board, along with an additional mortise locating jig (on left side of photo) clamped to horizontal board.
While the photo above shows a board with tenon, being used to mark the length of the mortise. The photo below shows the board with tenon, being used to mark the width of the mortise. Pencil shown is a BIC mechanical pencil (0.7mm), used for marking mortise location. The brown board clamped to tenon, is used to extend tenon edge down to board below, for marking mortise side. Brown board was also clamped to other side of tenon, for marking other side of mortise.
The photo below, shows a drawbore pin thru one of 2 holes drilled for wood dowels. The wood dowels enable you to achieve, a very tightly pulled together, mortise and tenon joint. This technique is called drawboring.
The photo below, shows a leg and stretcher, with drawbored mortise and tenon joint. Next step, not shown, will be to cut the wood dowels flush with the wood leg.
The photo below, shows the workbench top, clamped up during gluing. I built the top out of 2×6′s as follows:
- 2×6′s were cut to 86″ lengths (finished length is 75-3/8″)
- 2×6′s were ripped down to 4-1/4″ height (ripped both edges during this process, to remove rounded corners)
- 2×6′s were run thru thickness planer, in order to insure both faces were flat. Marked with a pencil on both faces a squiggly line, and ran both faces thru thickness planer, until pencil lines were removed. Final thickness of 2×6′s tended to be around 1-5/16″.
- Pre-finished dimensions of workbench top, were 86″x24″x4.25″
The photo below, shows an old stanley #6 Stanley handplane, that I used for flattening the bottom side of the workbench top. This handplane is not pretty, but it functions reasonably well, although I do plan on refurbishing it eventually. I planed diagonally from left to right and then right to left. I kept repeating the above process, until the surface was reasonably flat.
The photo below, shows the workbench face down, with the undercarriage positioned on the workbench bottom side, to match up with where I needed to transfer the leg tenon dimensions, to indicate where the mortises need to be located.
The photo below, shows two clamps and a short length of a 4 x 4 block of wood, holding the leg sides coplanar with the side of the workbench top.
The photo below, shows the workbench underside, being setup to drill the mortises, for jointing leg tenons to mortises in underside of workbench top. Notice the use of two thin strips of wood, used as fences to mark the mortise edges. The two thin wood strips were temporarily nailed in place with #4 penny finishing nails. A forstner drill bit ( 1″ diameter ) was used for starting the mortises, and a chisel and mallet were used to finish shaping the mortises.
The photo below, shows a 6″ combination square being used to check, to insure that the mortise sides are square to the underside of the workbench.
The photo below, shows the 4 mortises, on the underside of the workbench top.
The photo below, shows my disc sander, being used to put points, on wood dowels being used for drawboring.
The photo below, shows the jig I used for drilling holes for drawboring. The jig helped to keep the drilled holes square to the surface being drilled into. The jig also helped to maintain consistency, for spacing and location of drilled holds, from one mortise to the next.
The photo below, shows the workbench turned upside down, and of legs to underside of workbench top. Pipe clamps are shown on 3 of the legs (clamp on 4th leg added after taking this photo), during gluing of legs to underside of workbench top.
The photo below, shows the workbench top, after being worked with a #6 Stanley handplane and Orbital sander. I planed the top with handplane, same way as the underside of the workbench top.
However, I was having trouble with tear out, so I finished up, using my Orbital sander. I ran the sander across the top in a serpentine pattern. I ran the sander, 1st left to right, 2nd front to back, 3rd right to left, and 4th back to front. I kept repeating the above process, until the top was flat and level. During the above sanding process, I progressed thru the following sandpaper grits: 36, 80, and finished up with 120.
The photo below, shows the workbench top, being cut to length. The circular saw and fence, fence shown clamped to one end of the workbench top, was used to cut the workbench to finished length. The edge of the circular saw, rides against the 2×4 board, and the circular saw blade rides up against the edge of the plywood. The plywood fence edge is positioned on the desired cut location. The finished dimensions of the workbench are 75-3/8″ x 24″ x 3-3/4″.
The next post, Part 3, will complete the building of the Holtzapffel workbench.
Link to “Holtzapffel Workbench (Part 3 of 3)”:
Holtzapffel Workbench (Part 3 of 3) | Woodworking with AJO
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